Leh triptic: People, corners and dogs
As a young boy, I got to know about places like Leh, Hemis, or Srinagar from the adventure book written by Alfred Szklarski - Tomek na Tropach Yeti (Tommy on the Trail of the Yeti). I finally reached Kashmir and then Little Tibet in January 2023. The capital of Ladakh came as a little surprise.
What is the essence of the city? I would describe Leh as a typical South Asian city placed in an incredible scenic mountain landscape. It has construction buildings, numerous cars, crazy road traffic, ubiquitous trash, constant noise, swarms of dogs, cows on the streets, crowds, open-air markets, small sleazy restaurants, little shops selling outdated food products, tea stalls, smog, and an inevitable part of this cityscape - innumerable guesthouses. But all of this is situated in the Himalayan mountains. Chaos surrounded by the majesty of nature. This creates the atmosphere of the place. That's the Leh I encountered and how I felt it.
Most intriguing to me is the social fabric of the city. Natives, refugees from Tibet, Kashmiris, and Indians can be found at every corner. You come across prayer flags, prayer wheels, stupas, as well as pictures of HH Dalai Lama XIV. At the same time, you hear prayers from the local mosque. You can eat momos, tigmo, dal, thukpa, or Shapta, as well as Wazwan or Tandoori Chicken.
It isn't a living open-air museum. Beware of thinking like that. Buddhist monks drive Suzuki Maruti and wear The North Face fleece jackets over their robes. Regardless of age, literally everybody uses smartphones. Youngsters wear Western band-name sweatshirts - Lamb of God and Metallica seem to be the most popular. You can find cafes where Led Zeppelin or other classic rock bands are played. You can eat pizza or Italian pasta. It's a modern place, but in its own way. And perhaps that's the reason the proportion of tourists has changed in recent years. According to my friend, ten years ago the ratio was about 90% foreigners vs. 10% Indians. Westerners came here for the unique culture, to feel the spirit of Little Tibet, to explore Buddhism, or experience nomadic culture. Now the ratio is the opposite - Indians come here in pursuit of some coolness during the hot months in the southern states. Nowadays, foreign guests are few and far between, not only Westerners but also those from other Asian countries.
Moreover, not only has society changed... Glaciers are melting, and winter is not as harsh as it used to be. Climate change is a fact. What is the future of the mountains? I hope that's an open question, but everything I saw is not optimistic. And what about people in the countryside? They are heavily dependent on glacier water, as underground water sources are being drained by cities, and now their levels are low. What would happen if the glaciers stopped providing fresh water to the villages? Would rural people be forced to find another place to live?
But going back to Leh... Corners. I love this part of every city. Words are unnecessary. Just take a look.
And finally, Leh, for me, is the City of Dogs. You need to be careful not to step on one. Dogs are everywhere, in every street and on every corner. They may bark when you try to pass by, but after a minute, they lose interest and completely ignore you. Life.
The question is… Is Leh a place you want to come back? For sure. I felt in love in Ladakh countryside but I can’t hide that those City intruges me. So see you again Leh.
